The History of the Chicago Fashion Incubator

The concept of establishing a fashion incubator in Chicago stemmed from a sequence of events during the Mayor Richard M. Daley administration.  In the early 2000’s Chicago boasted a diverse and thriving community that spanned all areas of the fashion industry.  With more than 250 fashion designers, four fashion design colleges, world class boutiques and department stores, and a host of industry professionals, Chicago was quickly becoming recognized for its fashion. 

In September 2003, Marshall Field’s unveiled its grand renovation and expanded designer collections with the first Vertical Fashion Show in the United States where models/acrobats danced their way down the side of the flagship State Street store. This event not only garnered national media attention but put Chicago on the map for fashion as Good Morning America’s anchor team, Charlie Gibson and Dianne Sawyer, said that “Chicago just outdid New York’s Fashion Week.” The Vertical Fashion Show got Mayor Daley’s attention, too.

Marshall Field’s kept the momentum going by working with the city to secure Block 37 (across from the flagship store) in 2004 to produce a series of fashion shows including public appearances by Michael Kors and St John’s Marie and Kelly Grey.  In 2005 the City of Chicago and Marshall Field’s joined together to raise awareness of the city’s world-class talent with the development of Fashion Focus Chicago (FFC).  Marshall Field’s hosted a mayoral breakfast and press conference, launched a Chicago Designer Pop-Up Shop and hosted an annual Distinction in Design competition.  Marshall Field’s also offered appearances by Jennifer Lopez and Sarah Jessica Parker and a series of wardrobe seminars to the overall FFC programming.

During this time, the Chicagoland Entrepreneurial Center (CEC) worked with an influx of local fashion entrepreneurs, learning that the challenges of fashion entrepreneurs are much like those in other industries.  However, unlike other businesses, the CEC noticed that a void existed in the local market to support fashion-industry specific needs.

In May of 2005, the Chicagoland Chamber of Commerce led a business delegation which included Mayor Richard M. and Maggie Daley to the City of Toronto.  As part of the visit to Toronto, the group toured the Toronto Fashion Incubator and saw firsthand how the City of Toronto had approached similar circumstances to those of Chicago.  Daley saw a model for what could help grow the Chicago Fashion Industry.

In June 2006, Mayor Daley announced the appointment of Melissa Gamble as Director of Fashion Arts and Events.  One of her first objectives was to form the Mayor’s Fashion Council (MFC). The MFC was a group of designer and industry leaders who were brought together to assist in developing the fashion industry leaders from national and local education programs, fashion organizations, retailers, and designers.  Together, the MFC was tasked to identify ways to retain and support new and established local designers as well as assist design students in transitioning from school to career.

Under the Department of Cultural Affairs, Melissa Gamble coordinated the City’s first-ever week dedicated to fashion, Fashion Focus Chicago. This citywide celebration of fashion included a week of runway shows in Millennium Park, industry seminars and shopping events in October 2008.  To continue the momentum, the City hosted year-round programming to support and highlight local designers.

As these programs were building momentum, a select group of leaders from the public and private sectors were chosen to create a Chicago Fashion Incubator (CFI) to address the gap in supporting the City’s fashion businesses, a key component of Mayor Daley’s Fashion Initiative.  The board, formed in 2006, included Melissa Gamble with the Department of Cultural Affairs, Jason Felger with the Chicagoland Entrepreneurial Center, Rob Hunden with Hunden Strategic Partners, Amy Olson and Andrea Schwartz with Marshall Field’s, Stacie Hartman with Schiff Hardin, and Kelly Ryan with Bank of America.  The board collected insights from industry leaders in design, retail, and education. 

In addition, Fashion Studies professors from Columbia College Chicago, Dianne Erpenbach and Dana Connell, created a senior capstone semester course to help address all that was needed to create a successful incubator, including space, equipment, curriculum, resources, staffing and funding.  The student findings were a key component of the incubator’s foundation.  

In August 2008, the City of Chicago, Macy’s (formerly Marshall Field’s), the Mayor’s Fashion Council and the Chicago Fashion Incubator board formally launched THE CHICAGO FASHION INCUBATOR AT MACY’S ON STATE STREET.  The CFI became a recognized 501(c)3 not-for-profit with a mission to provide Chicago-based designers with the resources, business acumen and mentoring to launch and/or scale their careers in the fashion industry.

SPACE

The CFI operated on the 11th floor of Macy’s in a 2,375 sq. ft. suite generously provided by Macy’s on State Street with a buildout by Pepper Construction.  The space was comprised of three shared offices for resident designers, a manufacturing resource center/workroom and multiuse conference/show room.  The workspace provided equipment that is often too expensive for emerging businesses, including two 30-foot cutting tables, seventeen sewing machines and eight computers provided by Apple.  The space and equipment were primarily allocated for the designers-in-residents (DIR) but was also made available by appointment for other constituents. 

The Designers in Residence (DIR) utilized the CFI facilities for three distinct purposes:

1 – Workroom to design and produce garments

2 – Showroom to display work, conduct meetings with potential buyers and customers as well as to utilize as a photo studio and conference room

3 – Office Space to run the business functions of his or her design company

In 2019 the Chicago Fashion Incubator relocated to the Chicago Pedway, creating a footprint much like the former space but with added square footage, approximately 4,600 square feet. 

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

In addition to the physical space, the CFI provided a rich environment for business development.  Although the incubator was housed in Macy’s, the greater fashion and business community was committed to supporting the designers and contributing to their growth. 

A series of seminars were delivered throughout the term by key members of the business and fashion community, including but not limited to the Chicagoland Entrepreneurial Center; Chicagoland Chamber of Commerce; Fleishman Hillard; Liz Kores PR; Mario Tricoci; Macy’s, Inc.; Matt Ferguson Photography; Schiff Hardin, LLC; Women’s Business Development Center; design schools –  The School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Columbia College Chicago, Illinois Institute of Art and International Academy of Design and Technology. 

In September 2011, THE DRIEHAUS ENTREPRENEURIAL CENTER was added.  The Driehaus Entrepreneurial Center (The DEC) was a resource center that provided Chicago-based apparel and accessories designers with educational tools, research assets, and programming to help further their fashion business growth and development.   This sleek, modern space was accessible to the CFI’s current Designers in Residence, as well as to CFI alumni, providing them with essential tools to aid them in their development as both creative artists and successful business owners. Additionally, The DEC hosted professional business and merchandising seminars and workshops for emerging fashion entrepreneurs. The DEC was made possible by a grant from the Driehaus Design Initiative, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization established to promote and encourage design education and foster public appreciation for all aspects of fashion, design, and history.

DESIGNER-IN-RESIDENCE PROGRAMMING

Chicago Fashion Incubator (CFI) used innovative solutions to mentor and promote fashion entrepreneurs by bridging the gap between design education and business enterprise. It provided design and business development training to Chicago’s fashion entrepreneurs through mentorship, workshops and seminars. The Designer-in-Residence (DIR) program mentored business start-ups providing each with work and office space equipped with the technology and production equipment to design, make, and market their products to the trade as well as the end consumer.

Mentorship and support came from (1) fashion professionals to provide creative direction for developing full seasonal product collections; (2) manufacturing experts to teach modern methods for making and grading patterns, producing samples, and managing production; and (3) business professionals for legal, financial, and marketing acumen to guide emerging entrepreneurs with the know-how and confidence to critically-think through the challenges of launching a business.  Notable mentors included Andrea Reynders, Trideep Das and Nora DelBusto.

In addition, the CFI provided new and exciting experiences to help inspire creativity and grow their businesses.  Some examples include the following:  discussed the state-of-design and retail with Tommy Hilfiger and Terry Lundgren; debuted their spring collections in Macy’s Presents the Designers of Chicago Fashion show during the annual Fashion Focus Chicago week in Millennium Park; participated in Chicago’s StyleMax trade show at the Chicago Merchandise Mart; showcased one-of-a-kind pieces at a series of Macy’s trunk shows; participated in one-on-one meetings with buyers from Macy’s as well as local boutique owners and managers in the greater Chicago area; sold their collections in a CFI Pop Up Shop at 900 North Michigan Avenue; and experienced a “graduate type” curriculum series taught by all four Chicago area fashion institutions. 

The CFI was one of few organizations dedicated to the development of fashion entrepreneurs. In fact, the CFI has trained and supported 65 designers through its Designer-in-Residence (DIR) program.  Many of its designers have received numerous awards for their talent and innovation, most notably, Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Awards and coveted placements on the reality television show, Project Runway.

Public Programs

The Chicago Fashion Incubator partnered with business leaders and innovators to offer programs to the public throughout the year, including workshops, guest speakers, panel discussions and social networking events.

CFI DIRECTORS and BOARD OF DIRECTORS

The CFI was led by an Executive Director who reported to the Board of Directors.

Executive Directors over the years:

• Kim Prodan

• Lara Miller

• Tanya Gross

• Anna Hovet

City Liaison: Melissa Gamble, Director of Fashion Arts and Events – Department of Cultural Affairs

Board of Directors (throughout the years)

(*all titles and positions are listed during the time of service)

Lindsey Boland – Owner, Habit boutique

Megan Bueschel – CMO Mario Tricoci

Pierre Colorado – Creative Director, Blake Standard

Jason Felger – EVP Chicagoland Entrepreneurial Center, CFO – 12A Fund

Emily Frager – SPV and Partner, General Manager, Minneapolis, Fleishman Hillard

Stacie Hartman – Partner, Schiff Hardin, LLP; Chair, Financial Services Group, Steptoe, LLP

Ralph Hughes – VP Corporate Communications and External Affairs, Macy’s, Inc.

Rob Hunden – Owner, Hunden Strategic Partners

Liz Kores – Principal, Liz Kores Public Relations

Lance Lawson – Co-owner Jake boutique

Amy Olson – Fashion Producer

Kelly Ryan – Senior Client Manager/VP Bank of America

Andrea Schwartz – VP Media Relations & Cause Marketing, Macy’s, Inc.

Jim Wetzel – Co-owner of Jake boutique

CFI has been a launch pad for some of Chicago’s most recognizable names in fashion.

ALUMNI 2008-2023

JESS AUDE, LIZ BAHL, ANNA BROWN, KATE BOGGIANO, MIRIAM CECILIA -CARLSON, SARAH CHURCH, CONCETTA CIPRIANO, BROOKE CONRADY, NORA DEL BUSTO-JEWETT, SHAVONNE DORSEY, LEAH FAGAN, CHRISTINA FAN, RACHEL FRANK, CATHERINE FURIO,YANA GERMAN, AGNES HAMERLIK, CARA MARIA FARELLA, ANNA HOVET, ALONZO JACKSON, ALYSSA K. KAHLE, BARBARA KEISMAN, ERIC KIPP,SHRUTI KIRTI,STEPHANIE KUHR, GRACE LEE-LIM,GLENN MALLORY,KAHINDO MATEENE, CHRISTINA MONLEY, ADILAH MUHAMMA, LAGI NADEAU, KATELYN PANKOKE,TANEASHA PRUNTY, AGGA B RAYA, KPOENE’ KOFI NICKLIN,JONNIE RETTELE, KRISTIN ROSYNEK-HASSAN, CYNTHIA RYBA,VICTORIA SDOUKOS, CRYSTAL SIMMS, RAKAN SHAMS-ALDEEN, DONALDO SMITH, SHELBY STEINER,MASHA TITIEVSKY, LIDIA  WACHOWSKA, OLIVIA WANG, LATONYA WILLIAMS, CONNER WRITT, TAKAKO YAMANAKA, GABRIELLE ZWICK, ASHLEY ZYGMUNT, GOLI PARVINIAN, LAUREN MARKT, ALISSA BERTRAND, TARA EGGENSPILLER, CLAUDIA ARROYO, AMY TAYLOR, LOLA OSIRE, PAM KENDALL, BARBARA KEISMAN, AUSTIN DIPADOVA, CHRISTOPHER DAUS, ROMANCE ANASTASA, JULIE GAWRON ATELIER, JEAN SPELLMAN, MAYURI BAHETI, among others.

The Chicago Fashion Incubator model inspired and guided two additional fashion incubators to launch in 2011: The Philadelphia Incubator at Macy’s City Center and the Fashion Incubator San Francisco at Macy’s Union Square.

The CFI nurtured 65 designers in growing their businesses as well as helped build an active community of locally based fashion designers and those who support them during its 15 years of operation from 2008-2023. 

CHICAGO FASHION INCUBATOR SPEAKER SERIES AT COLUMBIA COLLEGE

In December 2023, the decision was made to re-envision The Chicago Fashion Incubator.  Thus, the CFI gifted an endowment to Columbia College Chicago to continue the mission by establishing a Chicago Fashion Incubator Speaker Series at Columbia College as well as to support new acquisitions for Columbia’s Fashion Study Collection. 

The annual Chicago Fashion Incubator Speaker Series at Columbia College will begin in 2024 and will feature lectures and workshops with topics focusing on design, manufacturing and entrepreneurship for an audience of aspiring and established local designers as well as those who have an affinity for fashion.  It is most fitting the annual Chicago Fashion Incubator Speaker Series will be operated by Columbia College Chicago’s Fashion Department as it worked with the founding board members to envision the CFI program.  The mission to strengthen the fashion community, bringing together Chicago-based fashion designers as they develop successful businesses in today’s global economy, will be continued.